Leopard Gecko Eublepharis macularius
The consensus first reptile. No strong UVB, no high humidity, calm temperament β a heat mat and a tank is genuinely enough to start.
βοΈ Legal status Β· Legal to keep
Native to arid South Asia. Not CITES-listed and not a protected species in China. Effectively every animal in the trade is captive-bred, so keeping one is legal. Never release it.
Check another species βKey parameters
- Lifespan
- 10-20 years; over 15 is normal with good husbandry
- Adult size
- 20-25 cm total length, 45-90 g as an adult
- Diet
- Strictly insectivorous. Crickets, dubia roaches and mealworms, dusted with calcium and vitamin D3
- Temperature
- Warm side 30-33 Β°C, cool side 24-26 Β°C, not below 20 Β°C at night
- Humidity
- 30-40%, plus a humid hide kept above 70% for shedding
β Suits you if
First-time reptile keepers, people short on space, anyone who wants low maintenance but still some interaction
π« Do not get one if
Anyone unwilling to feed live insects or unable to store insect feeders at home
Starter equipment list
Buy all of it before the animal arrives, not after.
- Enclosure: 60Γ30Γ30 cm minimum for one adult β floor space matters far more than height
- Heat mat plus a thermostat: the thermostat is mandatory, not optional. A mat wired straight to the wall will burn your gecko
- Three hides: one warm, one cool, and a humid hide above 70% in between
- Substrate: paper towel or reptile carpet is safest; never sand for juveniles
- Food dish and shallow water dish, calcium powder (one with D3, one without)
- Infrared temperature gun to check what the enclosure is actually doing
Most common beginner mistakes
- 1 Running a heat mat without a thermostat β the single most common fatal mistake, and it causes belly burns
- 2 Sand substrate β impaction after juveniles ingest it is one of the top killers in beginner setups
- 3 Feeding only mealworms β too fatty and calcium-poor, leading to fatty liver and MBD over time
- 4 Housing two males together β they will fight; adult males must be kept alone
- 5 Grabbing the tail β leopard geckos drop their tails, and while it regrows it never looks the same
Common illnesses
| Illness | Common cause | What you'll see |
|---|---|---|
| Metabolic bone disease (MBD) | Long-term calcium or vitamin D3 deficiency | Weak limbs, rubbery jaw, wobbling gait, tremors |
| Incomplete shed (dysecdysis) | Humidity too low, usually a missing humid hide | Retained white skin on toe tips and tail tip β left alone it constricts and kills toes |
| Cryptosporidiosis | Contact with an infected animal or contaminated feeders; new arrivals not quarantined | Tail thins rapidly (βpencil tailβ) while the animal keeps eating and still loses weight |
| Stomatitis (mouth rot) | Low temperatures suppressing immunity, oral injury | Swollen reddened mouth, cheesy discharge, refusing food |
Frequently asked
Does a leopard gecko need UVB?
It is not required. They are crepuscular and metabolise calcium fine on dusted supplements with D3. That said, many keepers now add a low-output UVB (5.0 or below) and report better condition β treat it as a bonus, not a necessity.
How often should I feed one?
Juveniles daily, sub-adults every other day, adults every 3-4 days. Use the tail as your gauge β a tail thicker than the neck means the animal is well fed.
Can I handle it?
Yes, it is one of the most handleable reptiles. Leave it undisturbed for the first week after it arrives, then keep sessions to 10-15 minutes, support the whole body, and never grab from above and behind.